Renjo La pass – the last pass to cross and then only down down down back to Lukla. I remember someone saying that I will get stronger with each pass crossed and with that thought in my mind, I was ready to conquer this last one.
Breakfast at 6am – usual toast with jam and milk coffee, then setting off at 6:30. And long way ahead of me.
At first, we were slowly going uphill (remember – Nepali flat) and with each meter closer to the pass, the path was getting steeper and steeper. I must say that my body was already tired like hell after those 15 or how many days of trekking, so my performance wasn’t at its best. Even though the climb wasn’t that difficult (both physically and technically), I felt really tired and wished for the end.
And after very long 3,5h we finally reached the top. There was a steep climb at the end and it took me forever to get over it. From there, it was possible to see Mt. Everest at its best – so far the mountain seemed the biggest from there. Of course not only Everest was visible, many other mountains as well but I just can’t remember their names.. We stayed there for a while and then our descent began..
All together, we had to go from 5410m to 4210m, so 1200m to climb down! It was a combination of Nepali flat downhill, steep downhill, sometimes going through big rocks, sand and dusty road.. So basically all you can imagine😉 It was very windy on the way down and I couldn’t admire the view that much, but still it was a spectacular trek.
And the most important thing – my knees came out if this without any injury or pain, which is amazing!!! I don’t know if it’s the way I started to walk, or the knee supplements I take or combination of both, but it works and I can’t be happier🙌😊 Of course I felt tiredness but who wouldn’t, after such a performance?!
So, 6 hours later and we arrived to Marulung. It’s the smallest village I’ve ever been to so far, without electricity, without running water, without proper (even squatting) toilet (for my Czech friends – there was a good old fashioned “kadibudka”). There were probably only two guesthouses in the village and we eneded up in one of them, together with other girl that I met on the top of the pass.
The mini solar panel that the guesthouse had was barely enough to light up the dining hall and so all the 6 of us (including guides and owner) were sitting around a mini “oven” in the middle of the room, while burning yak dung again.
The owner was the biggest surprise for me. An old guy, collecting and drying dung, running a guesthouse in the middle of nowhere and guess what.. He climbed Everest 10 times!!! Ten fu*king times!! Unbelievable. When we asked him which time did he like the most, he said that none of it. That every time it was painful and difficult and that he only did it for the money (for one summit climb, the guide gets 5000 USD, which is sometimes twice their yearly income). He also said that he won’t do it ever again, because many people are dying while trying to reach the summit and he doesn’t want to be part of that.
So many interesting things you learn on the way! Then we were served a homemade rice wine. Tasted like a very runny yoghurt and thank god it didn’t have many %.. One glass was enough for me at that altitude! And maybe because of the wine or more oxygen in the air, I finally had a proper sleep since I don’t know when (proper = 5h of sleep without breaks)😉
Next day we set off in direction of Namche. I wanted to be there as soon as possible so I persuaded my guide to start early – at 6:30. I’m really glad he agreed.
In 1,5h were reached Thame. And at that moment it was the first time in almost 3 weeks that I saw trees again!!! What a beautiful view it was! The rest of the way led around a river and through villages and forest and I enjoyed every second of it😉 I also noticed that my energy levels were up again! I could tell that I was high on oxygen and so I didn’t stop and just kept going.
And when we reached Namche, it was exactly 3h and 58min since the start. I’m really proud of myself💪
And for the rest of the day I just relaxed.. Went to a bakery for an apple pie and masala tea, strolled around the souvenir shops in Namche and that was it. Then I had dinner and a beer with Prakash (I promised him😜) and probably I’m so used to high altitudes now that it didn’t have almost any effect on me anymore😁
Though the sun still has.. Never ever underestimate the sun in here and always use a sunscreen!!! Otherwise you end up like me. It’s not a blush, it’s a sunburn 😂: