After a really difficult day yesterday, I decided to take it easy after all. I really didn’t feel like doing 2 passes in a row, although the thought of being in Kathmandu 2 days earlier was very tempting.
And so I rested properly. I slept until 7:30 (!😂) and watched the beautiful view I have out of my window – the Gokyo lake, sparkling with first sun rays touching the water, trekkers going up the Gokyo Ri (peak, 5360m) or towards the Renjo La pass. Small colorful dots moving alongside the mountain.
My lazy Saturday breakfast invoked a song from Roxette – Milk & toast & honey, which almost matched, except I replaced milk for coffee. I ate slowly, enjoying every bite after a looong time and was looking forward to what today will bring. My plan was very simple – walk around Gokyo, go to the bakery and climbed Gokyo Ri at sunset.
I made my hair (made = put into a ponytail, that looks as civilized as possible) and even put some makeup on.. I know it’s all in vein, but at least I feel better😉 Then went exploring Gokyo village. Well there’s not much to explore to be honest, couple of guesthouses, one bakery, yak dung drying in the sun, lake and nearby glacier.
I climbed to the edge of the glacier and decided to watch it for a while. Me and glaciers, we have kind of love-hate relationship. It’s monumental, frozen piece of earth and very beautiful. From afar. But I hate every second of being inside, trying to cross it.
So when I was watching it, it was making all kinds of ice-cracking sounds, although ice never fell off (or maybe I just didn’t see it), but rocks did. It’s a pretty dangerous thing, this glacier. You think you are walking on a rocky ground, but instead it’s a rocky ice, always moving unpredictably.
I was getting cold up there so decided to pay a visit to the only bakery in town (supposedly the highest bakery in the world – 4800m). I ordered walnut brownie and masala tea. It was ok but nothing special. I spent there couple of hours, reading book about self improvement (or self realization?) and got itchy feet (way to early than expected😅). Gokyo Ri right above me, perfect weather to climb… So I said screw it, I put my hiking shoes on, left my guide in the dining hall and went up alone.
In the book, there was a nice description of spending some good alone time. If it is set and planned, you will never recharge properly, and honestly, I don’t have much alone time in here.. 10mins before going to sleep? Probably. Otherwise always with a guide – breakfast, trekking, lunch, dinner. And I’m very sensitive to it. So today, totally unplanned, I climbed the Gokyo Ri to the top, alone. My head was never clearer😊
But I met some familiar faces up there – guys that were crossing the Khumbu glacier with me. You see, eventually you never end up alone and will bump into people you met before. Which is pretty cool! So we talked a bit there, admired the view and after half an hour or so climbed down to Gokyo. With perfect timing, because the sunset was just about to start.
I’ve never seen anything as beautiful as the lake at that time. Steam was slowly coming out of the lake which had the deepest turquoise color I’ve ever seen, with clouds right above it while sun shining through all of that. I can’t even describe it – it was perfect. I took mybe 1000 pics, because I just couldn’t get enough🙂
Now I’m sitting in a dining hall that is slowly getting warmer (thank god yak dung burns so well!) and waiting for my lunch/dinner. Pizza again, I can’t eat Dal Bhat anymore (although “Dal Bhat power – 24 hour”😂). However, I’m craving a burger. Craving meat like hell. But as guide said no meat after Namche, I’m afraid to risk it. Will have to wait 2-4 days until I reach kind of civilization. I will miss it here though.. Mountains are magical, especially Himalayas. I think it won’t be long until I return here again😉