Sorry for the language, but fucking hell.. !!!
8h of the most difficult trekking of my life. Fuck. More than 800m elevation up, around 700m down.
When we set off, I thought that those first 200m were the worst + when crossing the river at the bottom, I didn’t balance properly and my left leg ended up in the frozen water. Goretex works btw😜But little did I know what’s ahead of us!!
So, then there was nice Nepali flat for some time (Nepali flat = slope less than 45 degrees), that was fine. And then steep climb started. As I was already in 5200m, I felt the oxygen shortage, and really hard. First time I wished I had an oxygen bottle with me. But again, little did I know what’s ahead of me!
From steep climb we upgraded to fucking crazy steep climb. Zigzag like hell, pointy rocks around me, ground very dry, almost sand/volcanic ash-like and never ending. Then we reached 5400m with nice lake over there and I thought: finally, only 135m ahead of me. But as usual.. Nope.
Fucking brutal crazy climb happened! My guide had to take my bag, otherwise I wouldn’t manage. And then, the end of suffering came and I was at the top of Kongma La pass. It was nice and I was relieved, but nothing breathtaking I’d say.
My physical state during the climb was… unexpected.. At 5300m altitude sickness kicked hard. Heavy breathing, nausea.. I still felt my pancake from breakfast😖 And then dizziness, headache and swollen hands. Fucking crazy steep and brutal climbs are very blurred in my memory. I remember I couldn’t breathe, remember the ash and rocks, that my head hurt and that I want to die.
As you can see, I’m still alive. So we sat at the top for a while, ate some cookies, took couple of pics and then slowly descended towards Lobuche. And I thoughts the worst is behind. And as usual, little did I know! Fuck…
Going down was hard, we were walking around very steep cliffs, on not so stable rocks. But then it got better and then we reached the Khumbu glacier (imagine big and scary silence now).
During this time of year it’s mostly melted, but the landscape that it leaves behind is terrible – rocks, dust, huge mountains of ice and always going up and down. And it keeps moving, it’s not completely stable. So you can hear the ice cracking (hoping that it won’t brake right underneath your feet) and rocks falling.
We managed to get out of there maybe in 1h? And the glacier is less than 1km wide, so imagine. I felt like an ant in there.
Then we reached Lobuche and I couldn’t have been more thankful.
To sum it up – I reached the rock bottom during this trek and I’m glad I didn’t pass out, fell down and broke my neck on the way up.
Btw, all the altitude sickness stopped at the top, suddenly I was all well, although really tired. Which affected the Khumbu crossing a lot. So now I’m not experiencing any AMS symptoms whatsoever, I’m just extremely tired and can’t wait to go to bed (and it’s 5pm). The food I ate behaves properly in my stomach😉 And tomorrow another looong trek awaits – to Everest base camp!!! Should take 7-8h, but only with 400m of elevation. Can’t wait, but I’m also afraid if I’ll manage. Will see🙏🙏